There are a few reasons why you might like to line a skirt – for modesty if the main fabric is a bit see through, to help the fabric sit smoothly and not cling to your legs when wearing stockings/leggings, or perhaps to make the skirt feel thicker if the main fabric is too light. The type of lining you choose needs to complement the main fabric so it doesn’t interfere with the main fabric and because you are going to be washing them together.
The most common fabric labelled as lining is thin, plain coloured and has a slippery/slinky feel. It can be made from polyester, acetate or silk and would be suitable for lining most garments. If you wanted a cotton lining – say for breath-ability – you could use cotton voile or any other light weight plain weave cotton.
The two simplest ways to line a skirt is to either sew the lining with the main fabric as one, or to sew the lining separately and joined only at the waist. Here I’m going to show you how to use a separate lining attached at the waist and around the zip.
Firstly cut your skirt pieces from the main fabric. For the lining you’ll use the same pattern piece but shorten the length by 2.5cm.
Sew the main fabric side seams, centre back and zip as normal.
Sew the lining side seams and centre back the same way.
Press all seams flat – do not press the opening for the zip on the lining.
Arrange the main skirt (right side out) with the lining inside (inside out) matching up the zip and zip opening in the lining.
Pin the lining to the zip tape on both sides.
Sew the fabrics together as close to the zip as you can get. You may need to use your zip foot/half foot to get close enough on the flap side.
Leave some room for the fabric to move around the end of the zip. Having the lining caught too close might cause your zip to become distorted.
Another option is to hand sew the lining around the zip. A slip stitch with matching thread will work best here.
Press the lining away from the zip teeth.
Hem the lining and the main skirt using the same hem allowance – remember you’ve already trimmed the lining so it will sit 2.5cm shorter than the main skirt.
Attach the waistband with the main skirt and lining as one.
And you’re done. A lined skirt does feel luxurious and is well worth the effort.
The skirt pattern used is the women’s A-line skirt available at Very Debra on Etsy.
This article first appeared in One Thimble Issue 4 .