Dianna from Custom Couture Label Company offers full colour printed and woven clothing labels and boutique business branding supplies for smaller businesses. They are the developer of the original no fade – no fray inkjet printable colourfast fabric for clothing label manufacturing and have been a part of Etsy since 2007.
One of the important things you’re going to need when you decide to start selling your sewn items is labels. Apart from the fun of choosing a cute label with your business name you’ll also need to do some research into what is expected of you from a legal point of view.
Each country requires different information, but generally you’ll need to list fiber content and care instructions, with some needing country of manufacture as well. Here are a few of the labels I use here in Australia. All of the women’s clothing I make is either cotton or polyester cotton blend so I decide between the two content labels on the left. The ones on the right are for soft furnishings and include information about what fabrics they should be used for.
Because some of the fabric I use is from vintage sheets I created my own swing tags with special instructions for washing and care. (I couldn’t find any pre-printed ones so I drafted my own wording.) These are attached, along with the size and price swing tags, into the size label on the garment with a tagging gun (try this one – June Tailor Quilt Basting Gun).
You’ll need to research in your own country for what is needed so here’s a few places to look.
Attaching your labels can be done in a few ways and will be determined by your personal preference. The label on the left below has been stitched on flat top and bottom, catching the care and size labels (hiding underneath) to hang out below. The label on the right has been inserted into the waist casing with a size label beside. Some manufacturers prefer to have the content and care labels sewn into the right side seam near the hem. This may be something specific to your country so it’s best to check.
Learning about the correct labeling is the responsibility of anyone selling handmade items and there are penalties in each country for not complying.
Tomorrow I’ll be sharing some Etsy sellers who sell custom made labels for you to use in your handmade items. See it here.
Everyone makes mistakes because it’s a part of life. No matter how advanced at sewing you are, everyone unpicks.
Knowing how to unpick is part and parcel of learning to sew and learning to unpick well can make a big difference to the finished look of your work. The good old standard thread unpicker, the one you usually get when you first start sewing, can be a handy tool, but what if I showed you an easier, safer and quicker way using a different tool? Let me introduce you to the thread clipper –
Handsome devil isn’t he? See how pointed his tips are – that’s what you’re going to be wanting to unpick with.
Here are a few ways to use it.
Starting from the middle of the seam can often be the easiest since the seam should only have a top and bottom thread. Gently poke the thread clippers under one of the stitches and cut. Continue slipping the thread clippers under the stitches either side of where you began and snip. Then when you turn your work over the thread on that side will be loose – cut this thread at one end and pull it back to break it off. Now when you turn the work over again, there will be another loose thread hanging – pull it back to break it and continue back and forth till you’ve undone the seam. See image below.
Start at one end by unpicking the back tacking first. Slip the thread clippers under the rows of stitches and cut. Be careful not to gouge into your work or you’ll end up with a hole – you’ll need to work with good lighting and be able to see the individual stitches. Turn the work over and try that side. Continue turning the work over and cutting the treads until the back tacking is cleared away. The remainder of the seam can be undone by pulling and breaking the thread until you’ve reached where you need. See image below.
Sometimes the stitches of a seam can be particularly difficult to see which means you will have to unpick from inside the seam. Hopefully your stitches aren’t too small and you’ve been working with a medium to large stitch length. But this will work regardless. Pull the two edges of fabric apart till you can see the stitches and carefully cut with the thread clippers. Because the thread clippers are so small you’ll be able to get into tight spots and cut precisely with the sharp tips. Again be careful not to cut too far and risk cutting the fabric. It’s better to cut one stitch at a time rather than have that happen! See image below.
Some fabrics and seams will allow you too rip the seam open. This is another instance where using a longer stitch setting on your machine will be better. By pulling the two pieces of fabric apart the stitches will break and the seam is undone quickly. But only try this in situations where the fabric is heavier than the thread and has a reasonably tight weave. For example denim with one row of stitching would be safe to rip but chiffon or knit fabric would not. The other problem with this method is that you’re left with tiny bits of thread still in the fabric which will need to be removed.
Once you’ve unpicked the area, take it to the iron and press the fabric pieces flat. This is especially important if you need to take in or let out the seam. (It’s far easier to work with flat fabric pieces than creased ones.) The sewing may have distorted the fabric so be careful to retain the original pattern shape and remove any stray threads left in the fabric.
Hopefully you’ve picked up a few new tips here. Unpicking can cause major frustrations especially when you’re in a hurry. But if it results in a better item, then it’s all worth it.
Do you have a favorite tool to help you with your work? Here’s my top 14 items I can’t live without in the workroom and I’m sure you’ll find them handy too.
magnetic pin dish – super handy if you drop pins
seam gauge or 15cm ruler – for checking seam and hem widths
thread clippers – they’re small enough to have sitting at the machine and won’t get damaged if you drop them
small tray – handy to hold size, content and branding labels
clipboards – great for holding work sheets and note paper
plastic laundry baskets – will save your work from dropping on the floor and are easy to carry around
tailors chalk – it’s quicker to use chalk to mark darts than pins
15mm circle punch – for punching holes in your patterns ready for hanging
tape for hanging patterns – or I use a selvedge of fabric
cutting table – ideally your table should be at a height where you don’t need to bend over. 90cm or hip height is good as you’ll be able to lean against it and reach without straining your back. It’s also good if you can walk around the end of your table – for when you’re cutting from a long length of fabric and need to have the excess hanging off the end.
a sturdy ironing board with a clean, fitted cover
a pressing cloth will save your iron from any excess glue from iron on interfacing and will allow you to press items that can scorch from a too hot an iron
plenty of bobbins – and if your machine allows, fill bobbins as you sew.
Were any of your favorites on the list? Do you have any others to share? Let me know in the comments below.